Fuerteventura - a beach lover's paradise
by Alan Hayes
Fuerteventura - blessed with over 150 beaches
- is one of the least spoiled and the least
discovered of the Canary Islands.
With a dramatic volcanic landscape, little
rainfall and all year round warm temperatures,
the desert landscape is unique and large areas
of the island are protected parks. Visit Fuerteventura
and you are stepping back to the way Spain
was perhaps 30 years ago - no high rise buildings
and a relaxed and gentle way of life, clean
streets and beaches.
Unlike its more touristic and built-up neighbours
of Tenerife, Lanzarote and Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura
is a place to come to relax, unwind and step
back in time. No dusk-to-dawn open air discos,
no Club 18-30 ... a place where goats outnumber
residents.
The island, the closest of the Canaries to
Africa, has an embarrassment of beaches -
some are in deserted coves and little fishing
villages, others down little dirt tracks -
but the most popular ones can be reached from
the main roads.
Not that main roads resemble those found
in mainland Spain or the UK. They are well
maintained and mostly straight but the lack
of traffic is the first thing you notice.
And the lack of traffic lights. So far I've
found one on the island - and that has never
worked!
Travelling is easy ... buses and ferries
are cheap, run to time and integrate with
each other so you can get from, say, Caleta
de Fuste to Corralejo with ease.
Caleta de Fuste is very much an up-and-coming
resort geared to families. You can find restaurants
of all nationalities to suit all tastes and
all pockets.
There are shops and bars where you can choose
to have a quiet drink and watch the world
go by. Entertainment can be found - everything
from live groups and cabarets to karaoke,
quizzes and bingo - but it is not as "in
your face" as Benindorm or the Costa
del Sol. There are even places open to the
early hours - but you won't be disturbed if
you want a quiet night Even the airport here
turns off the runway lights and locks up at
night time!
Caleta has a golden sandy beach set in a
bay shaped like a horse shoe. The gently sloping
shore makes for very safe bathing and this
beach is the one most holidaymakers head for.
But there is a south beach - reclaimed from
the sea and landscaped into small bays which
are dotted with small circular brick structures
to provide some privacy.
Fuerteventura (Fuerte - strong: Ventura -
happiness) has been described as "the
land that time forgot". It is the second
largest of the Canary Islands and coming here
really is like stepping back in time! Many
people mistakenly believe the name of the
island stands for "Strong Wind"
and although there is often a steady, pleasing
breeze, this is usually a welcome relief that
makes the hot temperatures a pleasure.
It also makes Fuerteventura a water sport
paradise - windsurfing, surfing and kite surfing
take place all over the island. Landing at
the airport, the first thing you are struck
by is the stark, lunar-like landscape. But
explore beyond that and you find vast sweeping
sand dunes, lagoons, little fishing villages
and isolated sandy coves.
Caleta de Fuste is an ideal base for exploring
this island being midway between north and
south.You can find apartments to rent there
at Fuerteventura Sunshine Holidays:
Heading north is Corralejo where the first
few self catering apartments appeared all
those years ago. Now, it is a bustling resort
and the holiday industry has taken off in
a big way.
Approaching Corralejo the landscape gives
way to miles of immense shimmering sand dunes
reminiscent of Saharan Morocco, just 60 miles
to the east. The famous dunes are now a protected
national park.
Corralejo town itself still retains some
of the charm of it's early days especially
around the old harbour area. From here you
can see spectacular views of Lanzarote and
the Isle of Lobos - well worth a visit if
you find even the pace of life on Fuerteventura
a little too much!
Also in the north of the island is El Cotillo,
a paradise for surfers. This lovely relaxed
village has some great beaches, interesting
lagoons and some good restaurants and bars.
As you head into the village you will come
across the new harbour. To the left are vast
golden beaches and to the right, lagoons.
On the left of the village is the Forteleza
del Toston, a round stone fort built in 1790
to defend against pirates. And about 9 kms
out the lighthouse Faro de Toston where you
will find delightful bays.
The beaches are made for water sports lovers
and many experienced surfers head to the stretches
of sand between El Cotillo and Corralejo.
The lagoon area is much calmer and peaceful
- white beaches with crystal clear waters.
This village is a shrine to the Virgin de
Buen Viaje (good travel) and these words can
be seen painted on the cliffs overlooking
the old harbour.
Heading from Caleta de Fuste to the south
of the island are the beaches of the Jandia
Peninsula, almost 20kms of vast white beaches
some over 1kms wide.
This huge area includes golden white shores
which vary from pretty coves backed by low
cliffs at the Costa Calma end to huge dunes,
vast desert-like areas and lagoons. It also
includes the beach immortalised on thousands
of postcards. The Playa de Sotavento is probably
one of the most photographed beaches in Europe.
It is also a spot where surfers flock to.
The PWA world windsurfing speed and slalom
event draws the best windsurfers every year
and the world kite surfing championship was
held in 2005.
At the southern end of the Jandia Peninsula
is Morro Jable, another well developed resort
with golden beaches and one which is well
loved by German package tour operators. So
loved, in fact, that even many road signs
here are in Spanish and German.
With so many beaches, not surprising naturists
also love the island. It would be impossible
here to list them all but there is a very
good guide to the best beaches - and to the
best naturist beaches - at the Holiday Fuerteventura
island guide.
But Fuerteventura is not just about beaches.
It is also about sightseeing. One of the most
awesome sights on the island is the shipwreck
of The American Star - a huge ocean-going
liner which ran aground in a deserted cove
several years ago under mysterious circumstances.
How this huge ship - once the biggest of
its class in the world - came to rest there
is another story and a controversial one but
the sight of this towering wreck lying just
yards off shore in a deserted cove just outside
Ajuy is a very eerie and haunting sight. It
is not easy to find but again, the Holiday_Fuerteventura
site has instructions.
From here, take the mountain road to Betancuria
- former capital of the island - and you will
be rewarded with some truly spectacular views
and the town itself is well worth spending
a couple of hours in.
Or try visiting Cofete - hard to reach but
the beach runs for about 5kms, is white and
sandy and has plenty of room and at the southern
tip lies Cofete village - isolated and used
mostly as a weekend retreat.
Giniginamar is ideal if you are seeking peace
and quiet. The beach, bordered by palm trees,
is of black volcanic sand and in the village
itself you can find local tapas and on the
outskirts, some rather exclusive properties.
Arts and crafts are well catered for - Fuerteventura
is not known as the "island of sculptures"
for nothing! On almost every roundabout on
the island, you will find a sculpture of some
form!
There are a number of museums - the craft
centre at Antigua which is based around a
converted windmill and the arts centre at
La Olivia which has beautifully landscaped
gardens and which features many works by the
Canarian artist Alberto Manrique. Or La Alcogida,
a living museum based around a village which
shows you the way Canarians lived years ago.
There are many other parts of Fuerteventura
that lie hidden from the mass tourism market
- long may it remain that way!
About the Author
Alan Hayes is a businessman who discovered
Fuerteventura and stayed there. He now runs
Fuerteventura
Holidays and Homes: a holiday lettings
and property management business. Also visit
Holiday
Fuerteventura: for a complete guide to
Fuerteventura
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